Bettachris
07-17-2006, 08:16 PM
Welcome to the world of fishkeeping. If you are doing research before you get a new tank than you have stopped at the right thread.
Lets start with the basics:
The tank- There are many types of tanks and tanks come in different sizes. In general fishkeeping the larger the tank the better. the more gallons you have the more room there is for sucess. I would recommend getting a 29 gallon- 55 gallon for a starter tank. Often local fish stores will suggest a 10 gallon, which is ok but you can really stock alot of fishes in this tank.
Water- Water is not just water when it comes to fish, alot of it is a numbers game. Each area has its own water ph. Tap water is ok to add to a fish tank, the only thing is you need to get a de-choroline chemical like stress coat. Ph values are important with fish. Fish come from all over the world and all types of water. 7.0 is a neutral ph level. Most tap water is around 7.2 . Any level below 7.0 is considered acidic. South American fishes often like acidic water. Any level above 7.0 is considered alkaline. Fishes usually from Africa like high ph levels. It is important to keep fishes that are within close ph ranges from eachother. You wouldn't want to mix and african cichlid with an amazon fish.
Temp - water temp is also important. Fishes are classed in two different water temps, one being cold and cool water fishes like goldfish, and the other being tropical fishes like tetras and barbs. As a general rule you never want to mix goldfish with tropical fishes. There are a few exceptions to the rule as well.
Cycling- When you first get a tank i know it is hard not to get fishes and get the tank ready that day. You should first set the tank up with water and decour stuff like gravel, filters, etc... than it would be a good idea to let the tank sit for a day and let your filter work on cleaning the water. Next you are ready to get some fishes. It is important not to get alot of fishes. These fishes are not meant to be your final stocking. You need to get a few small hardy fishes to cycle your tank. These fishes basically have a hard job of adjusting the the poor water. Their real job is to poo in the tank and add ammonia to the tank. This is the process called cycling. After about a week and there was no major crashes in the tank than you should do a 25 % water change and than you can get new fishes. When stocking a new tank always stock slow. If you stock like crazy you will overload the tank and it's chances of crashing increase.
Stocking: The one inch per gallon rule is really out dated. But unfort it is very easy to overstock a tank. too much overstocking will lead to alot of illness, high ammonia levels, high nitrites, high nitrates and can lead to a tank crash.
Here is a general stocking for a 10 gallon:
5 cory catfish,
4 white cloud minnows,
3 male guppies,
1 pair of cherry barbs.
All of these are very common, cheap and hardy fishes.
Key terms: You will often hear these terms
LFS = local fish store
cycling = adding ammonia to a tank(same as seeding)
water parameter = ph,ammonia,nitrites,nitrates levels.
HOB= hang on back filters
Filters: Filters are very important for your fish. There are really 4 main types of filters. And Bio,mechanical,chemical filtertation.
Internal- There are internal power filters. Such as furval 400 and the whishper 10i. These filters are good for tight spaces.
Sponge filters- they run off of an air pump. While they dont really work that well from big active community tanks with alot of fishes, they are great for baby tanks.
HOB- Hang on the back filters are probably best for a 55 gallon or less. These filters just attach to the back of the tank and you fill it with cleaning media that you want.
Canister filters- These are big filters meant for 55 + gallons. They are great and powerful. Tend to be more excpensive but are worth it for larger tanks.
Under ground filter- considered old technology now, but still affective. it stays under the gravel and has one-four pipes sticking out where u can add a power head.
Things to get at a lfs:
Day 1) tank, stand, hood, light, gravel(xxxxxx pounds), Filter, air pump, air tubes, air stones, heater, live plants, python syphon, stress coat, stres zyme.
Day 3) After everything is set-up, a few small danios for cycling
Day 11) start stocking slow, i would also get a few more live plants, Medications like melafix, and pimafix are good to get as they will treat a wide range of illness.
Live plants: live plants are important to help keep your water parameters in check. live plants aren't as techincal as they are said to be. Amazon sword plants are hardy, java ferns are hardy. Best to stick with these.
Conclusion: If you have any other questions or problems just let us know.
By BettaChris
Lets start with the basics:
The tank- There are many types of tanks and tanks come in different sizes. In general fishkeeping the larger the tank the better. the more gallons you have the more room there is for sucess. I would recommend getting a 29 gallon- 55 gallon for a starter tank. Often local fish stores will suggest a 10 gallon, which is ok but you can really stock alot of fishes in this tank.
Water- Water is not just water when it comes to fish, alot of it is a numbers game. Each area has its own water ph. Tap water is ok to add to a fish tank, the only thing is you need to get a de-choroline chemical like stress coat. Ph values are important with fish. Fish come from all over the world and all types of water. 7.0 is a neutral ph level. Most tap water is around 7.2 . Any level below 7.0 is considered acidic. South American fishes often like acidic water. Any level above 7.0 is considered alkaline. Fishes usually from Africa like high ph levels. It is important to keep fishes that are within close ph ranges from eachother. You wouldn't want to mix and african cichlid with an amazon fish.
Temp - water temp is also important. Fishes are classed in two different water temps, one being cold and cool water fishes like goldfish, and the other being tropical fishes like tetras and barbs. As a general rule you never want to mix goldfish with tropical fishes. There are a few exceptions to the rule as well.
Cycling- When you first get a tank i know it is hard not to get fishes and get the tank ready that day. You should first set the tank up with water and decour stuff like gravel, filters, etc... than it would be a good idea to let the tank sit for a day and let your filter work on cleaning the water. Next you are ready to get some fishes. It is important not to get alot of fishes. These fishes are not meant to be your final stocking. You need to get a few small hardy fishes to cycle your tank. These fishes basically have a hard job of adjusting the the poor water. Their real job is to poo in the tank and add ammonia to the tank. This is the process called cycling. After about a week and there was no major crashes in the tank than you should do a 25 % water change and than you can get new fishes. When stocking a new tank always stock slow. If you stock like crazy you will overload the tank and it's chances of crashing increase.
Stocking: The one inch per gallon rule is really out dated. But unfort it is very easy to overstock a tank. too much overstocking will lead to alot of illness, high ammonia levels, high nitrites, high nitrates and can lead to a tank crash.
Here is a general stocking for a 10 gallon:
5 cory catfish,
4 white cloud minnows,
3 male guppies,
1 pair of cherry barbs.
All of these are very common, cheap and hardy fishes.
Key terms: You will often hear these terms
LFS = local fish store
cycling = adding ammonia to a tank(same as seeding)
water parameter = ph,ammonia,nitrites,nitrates levels.
HOB= hang on back filters
Filters: Filters are very important for your fish. There are really 4 main types of filters. And Bio,mechanical,chemical filtertation.
Internal- There are internal power filters. Such as furval 400 and the whishper 10i. These filters are good for tight spaces.
Sponge filters- they run off of an air pump. While they dont really work that well from big active community tanks with alot of fishes, they are great for baby tanks.
HOB- Hang on the back filters are probably best for a 55 gallon or less. These filters just attach to the back of the tank and you fill it with cleaning media that you want.
Canister filters- These are big filters meant for 55 + gallons. They are great and powerful. Tend to be more excpensive but are worth it for larger tanks.
Under ground filter- considered old technology now, but still affective. it stays under the gravel and has one-four pipes sticking out where u can add a power head.
Things to get at a lfs:
Day 1) tank, stand, hood, light, gravel(xxxxxx pounds), Filter, air pump, air tubes, air stones, heater, live plants, python syphon, stress coat, stres zyme.
Day 3) After everything is set-up, a few small danios for cycling
Day 11) start stocking slow, i would also get a few more live plants, Medications like melafix, and pimafix are good to get as they will treat a wide range of illness.
Live plants: live plants are important to help keep your water parameters in check. live plants aren't as techincal as they are said to be. Amazon sword plants are hardy, java ferns are hardy. Best to stick with these.
Conclusion: If you have any other questions or problems just let us know.
By BettaChris